Friday, March 5, 2010
Reflexión
The six month experience in Peru was a whirlwind that flew by before I could even blink my eyes, but somehow so much happened in such a seemingly short amount of time. It was certainly not an easy experience and it put me outside of my comfort zone quite a lot. I witnessed a kind of crime and poverty that I was not used to, opening my eyes to the reality outside of my happy little bubble at home and at college; but I witnessed more than this ¨social reality¨. I witnessed an amazing country full of pride and home to an incredible culture. Through all my experiences and adventures I learned a great deal about myself and about a country and its people I had previously known so little about.
I will always have memories of the La Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú, where I met so many unforgettable friends and went through the struggle of adapting to a new education system and classes in Spanish. I loved having lunch with friends en El Comedor Central, watching deer walk freely on campus, and playing soccer once in a while in the small fields on the edge of campus. I loved my project for photography class taking pictures of informal workers throughout the city and my Peruvian Social Reality project investigating a mall that sprung up in a poorer area of the city. I miss being involved on the campus of la PUCP, in the choir Voces en Christo and in my Afro-Peruvian dance class. The choir was such a welcoming group, and the members wanted to share with me just as much as I wanted to share with them. The Afro-Peruvian class was one of the most challenging and embarrasing things I have done! I can certainly say that I am not a natural Afro-Peruvian dancer, but the class really helped put me outside of my comfort zone and adapt.
Outside of the university, I miss my Peruvian family so much. Although sometimes a little quirky, Señora, Dante, and Cynthia created my home away from home. In that house I improved my Spanish by long dinner conversations and I met an amazing group of other exchange students to share the experience with. I miss Guillermo´s family as well, who loved to cook meals for me and invited me into their family just as if I was their daughter. I also miss the craziness of the unorganized transportation systems. I miss taking combi or micro buses and watching the ¨cobrador¨hanging out the door to yell to people about which direction the bus was going.
Looking back at pictures, I think of all the traveling opportunities I had while in Peru. I saw and did things that I never imagined doing and realized that trying new things is the best way to learn. Each journey was new, different, and made me want to explore and experience more of all that is out in the world. I was able to visit a local tribe and hold an anaconda snake in the rainforest, swim with a colony of seals, sandboard in the desert, visit a floating hay island on the highest-elevated accesable lake in the world, climb Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu, camp by a lagoon in the middle of the Andes Mountains, surf in the Pacific Ocean, and hike into and across the deepest canyon in the world. With my sister I had the opportunity to see other South American countries, exploring a little coast town of Uruguay, relaxing on the beach in Chile, watching Tango in downtown Buenos Aires, and enjoying a fruit salad of every fruit imaginable in a market in Santiago. In Lima, I was able to witness one of the largest religious processions in the world for Señor de los Milagros, experience a crazy New Years celebration complete with fireworks and bonfires in the street, run the 100th annual half-marathon of Lima, cheer on the national soccer team to victory, and interview a famous Limenian chef. The experiences will last a lifetime in memories and have inspired me to seek out more of the truly amazing world we live in.
I often look back on my volunteer time spent in the Hospital del Niño, the children´s hospital, and La Posadita del Buen Pastor, the orphanage for children with HIV. This experience is hard to describe in words, since it really made me realize what matters to me and what I want to do with my life. Leaving after a morning or afternoon of volunteer work gave me a feeling I had never experienced before - I felt an inner peace in knowing that this was really my passion. I know that I will find some way to make this my life´s work. Whether in the field of researching disease or pediatric medicine, I want to devote my life to battling the diseases that take away so many innocent lives. The children in the hospital and orphanage taught me what real courage is and serve as an example for how to appreciate and take advantage of what one is given in life.
Finally, I look back on the friends I made in Peru. Meeting and getting to know the Holy Cross students and the exchange students living in my house was so helpful in giving me people who could relate to the experience, talk about differences in culture, and also just be almost a piece of home. The Peruvian friends we met showed me how incredibly open-hearted people can be. Many of our friends genuinely wanted to help us learn about their country and language and wanted to learn about us as well. My Peruvian friends were a blessing that I will never forget, and I hope to be able to stay in contact with them and some day see them again.
Ahora tengo que decir gracias a todos en el Perú por todo lo que han hecho para hacerme sentir cómoda en un país y cultura muy diferente que el mío. La experiencia de vivir en Lima no era fácil y tenía que acostumbrarme mucho a la nueva forma de vida. En los seis meses que estuve en el Perú, aprendí muchísimo del idioma, de la cultura y de la vida en general, y al final me enamoré del país. Tengo muchos buenos recuerdos que nunca olvidaré y amigos que nunca quiero perder. Todos tienen un hogar en mi país si me quieren visitar y algún día muy pronto quiero regresar a Lima. El país del Perú, su cultura y su gente siempre tienen un lugar especial en mi corazón.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Los últimos días en Lima
On Wednesday night after dinner, Christy, Guillermo, and I went to the dance show Brisas de Titicaca with our two friends Luis and Martin. We had a nice view from the second-floor seating and enjoyed watching all the different dances and dancing a little bit in between the performances. On our way back to my house, Christy noticed the casino called New York right across the street from my neighborhood. Since she loves playing black jack, she convinced all of us to go in for a little while. It was funny to see Christy gamble in Peru and we left not too long after with Christy content with some winnings.
On Thursday, New Years Eve, we woke up and breakfast in the house. We then walked around the neighborhood to drop off our laundry and waited to pick it up. In the mean time we started looking for a particular pharmacy that my family had told me has a doctor working in it, since my throat was still really sore. We had some trouble finding it, but ran into this sweet older woman who brought us to her home and had her housekeeper bring us to the pharmacy. The doctor in the pharmacy gave me some antibiotics, which cleared up my sore throat within the next day. After having lunch near my home and picking up our laundry, Christy and I headed to Miraflores. It was a pretty day out and we started out walking along the parks on the cliffs and passing through Parque de Amor. We really wanted to go paragliding over the city, which I had never gotten to do before, but when we got there we realized that the prices were pretty steep for our end-of-vacation budget. Instead we just walked around enjoying the view of the ocean, browsed the mall in the cliffs called Larco Mar, and then walked to the center of Miraflores, Parque Kennedy. We browsed some street art and jewelry vendors, tried to go the the pre-Incan Huaca ruins which ended up being closed for New Years Eve, and then shopped around. Guillermo and Luis (Chuliso) met up with us in Miraflores and we went to the Inca Markets to buy some last-minute souvenirs.
After the day in Miraflores we took the bus home and Christy and I got ready for the night. We had made online reservations to eat at La Rosa Naútica, a fancy seafood resaurant on a jetty in on the ocean that I had always wanted to go to, for a New Years Eve dinner. Little did we know, the restaurant didn´t open until about 10:30pm due to New Years and the prices were extremely high. Instead of waiting around, we paid the expensive taxi ride back up the cliffs to Miraflores and ate dinner at a nice café in Parque Kennedy. After dinner, we headed off to Guillermo´s house. It was his father´s birthday that day so they were having a combined birthday and New Years celebration with friends and relatives in the house. In Peru, none of the celebration for New Years really starts until midnight.
Right before midnight, Guillermo told me and Christy to come outside. Outside of his cousin´s house they were getting ready to have a big bonfire in the street! Every year it is tradition to burn big stuffed scare-crow-like dolls to burn out the old year and welcome the new one. As soon as midnight hit, everything in the streets went crazy! Guillermo and his uncle and cousin´s lit their huge bonfire in the middle of the street, and every other street had a bonfire lit too. People everywhere were running around setting off fireworks. Me and Christy ran for cover under a stoop! Eventually we got the courage to light off a few fireworks ourselfs though. After the crazy fireworks displays we went back into the house to congratulate everyone on the new year and then headed off to a party with some of Guillermo´s high school friends in the next district over. The party was fun and everyone was dancing, although it was a little difficult for Christy to communicate since not many of his friends spoke English. Christy and I left the party around 2:30am to try to get some sleep before the next day.
On New Years day it is tradition for Guillermo and his friends to go strait to the beach from the party without sleeping. Luckily Christy and I snuck in a little sleep and then met up with them again to take the bus to the beach. We were skeptical of the plans since it was sprinkling rain in Lima, but we took the 2-hour bus ride to the beach Santa María. Although it wasn´t too sunny, the weather was warm and we relaxed on the beach and went swimming a little bit. We enjoyed a nice lunch of ceviche and later in the afternoon headed back to Lima. That night after dinner with my family again, Christy, Guillermo, and I went to the fountain park. We had a lot of fun and Christy liked it a lot, although Guillermo got me soaked after we ran into the middle of one of the fountains!
On Saturday, Christy´s last day, it was Guillermo´s 20th birthday. We met up with him and with my friend Martha in the center of Lima. We showed Christy the Plaza de Armas with the government palace. Although we hoped to enter the Cathedral since I had never seen the inside, it was closed. We walked to La Iglesia de San Fransisco to get a tour of the church and the catacombs beneath. We then went to a Museum of the Spanish Inquisition. After we took a bus ride past my University so that Christy could see it, although it was closed for holidays and we couldn´t enter. We went to the gastronomic festival that I had gone to with Meredith and my friend Karen in the past to have Guillermo´s birthday lunch with Martha and Guillermo´s parents. Although it was difficult to choose one of my last meals in Peru, I chose Sopa Seca with Carapulcra, one of my favorite dishes that is from Chincha. After some Pisco Sours and Algarrobinas, Christy and I headed back to my house to start packing up our things. Christy said her goodbyes to my family and then we headed to Guillermo´s birthday party with his friends and family at his house. Christy and I had to leave the party early to head to the airport for her flight, but Guillermo´s uncle was nice enough to drive us and Chuliso came with us too. It was sad to say goodbye to Christy after such an amazing adventure together, but I knew I would be seeing her soon.
After dropping Christy off, Chuliso and I returned to Guillermo´s party for the rest of the night. On Sunday I woke up with a strange feeling in my stomach, knowing that it was my last full day in Peru since my flight would leave the next morning at 8am. I had breakfast with the family, packed a little bit more, and had my fairwell lunch with the family too. Then I went to the mall at Plaza San Miguel to meet up with my friend Karen to say goodbye. We had some iced coffee drinks together and chatted about the future. It was sad to say one of my many goodbyes to Karen, who had been such a great friend from Photography class all along. I returned to the house, got all my things together and then said my goodbyes to the family. It was so hard to say goodbye to a family I had grown to call my own and I couldn´t prevent the tears. After I went to say my goodbyes to Guillermo´s family which was a teary goodbye as well to such a wonderful family. Guillermo and I went out that night and reminisced on the last 5 months that we had known each other and all the things we had done together.
The next morning our director Julio and Guillermo were both at my house around 5:15am to take a taxi to the airport. It was so surreal to be leaving the life I had lived for the past 6 months and the life I had grown to love. After I checked my bags and Julio left, I was surprised when Guillermo´s family arrived in the airport as well. We all walked to the security entrance and it was a very tearful goodbye before entering the door to security. I spent a while crying and remembering all the wonderful things that happened in Peru on my flight to Miami, sat sadly in the airport in Miami for my 6-hour layover, and then got my spirits up a little on the flight to Boston. Arriving in Boston, my parents and my best friend Jenni were there waiting for me and it was really nice to see them after so long. It was a whirlwind of events, and although bittersweet, it was nice to be home.
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Cusco and Machu Picchu!
Waiting for the bulldozer to try to plow the fallen road
The events of that night put a damper on the rest of the treck and especially annoyed us with the guide, but the next day was better. We woke up and went to the hot springs near the town. The town is beautiful because it is in the middle of enormous, grass-covered mountains. The hot springs were relaxing and were pools filled with naturally hot water from beneath the mountains. After relaxing, we proceeded on to our hike. We hiked a total of 6 or more hours that day, stopping for lunch at the entrance of the Machu Picchu reserve and walking along train tracks for the entire second half of the walk. At one point we tried to board the train while it was stopped, but we were kicked off since you need to buy tickets back in Santa Teresa. We had sent our belonging along on the train, though. We finally made it to Aguas Calientes, the small town at the base of Machu Picchu slightly after darkness hit. The coolest part of the day´s walk was when we got close to Aguas Calientes our guide Abigail pointed out the back-side of the Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu mountains. Once in Aguas Calientes, we saw our hostel that had clean bathrooms, a step up from the last one, and we ate a nice dinner together. Unfortunately, Abigail was mixed up again and we had to wait until after 10pm to retreive our luggage from the train station. Very frustrated with Abigail, we were relieved to say our good-byes as she left for Cusco the next morning and we would have a different guide scheduled for inside Machu Picchu. We finally were able to shower and went to bed as soon as we could!
Baños Termales in Santa Teresa
About to cross the first of many scary, shaky bridges on the trek, day 2
The next morning we woke up bright and early at 4am to hike up Machu Picchu for sunrise. It was a grueling hike up steep stairs, but it was well worth the feeling upon reaching the top. The view from the gate of the surrounding mountains still covered by the hovering morning clouds was breathtaking. We were one of the first in line for the entrance to Machu Picchu, which opens its gates at 6am. We were allowed in and were among the first 400 to enter and thus received access to hike the Wayna Picchu mountain. It was an unbelievable feeling to have earned the viewing of such amazing ruins, and it was quite a different feeling from the last time I went when we took the train. The clouds were still hovering around the ruins but eventually cleared up and we had pretty good weather for the day. We first had a tour of the ruins, learning they were discovered my an American Hiram Bingham in 1911. We also learned that most of the gold and artifacts collected from the site at on display at Yale University instead of in Cusco. How unfair! The Incas abandoned the site when the Spanish started to invade, and the Spanish new found the site although they had heard of it. The tour was very interesting and we walked through most of the ruins.
View from the hike up Machu Picchu at sunrise
Inside Machu Picchu, overlooking Wayna Picchu mountain
Exploring the ruins of Machu Picchu
After taking a bathroom break and a rest, our time slot came to hike Wayna Picchu! Wayna Picchu is the steep mountain on the other side of Machu Picchu and we were a little nervous of more hiking - especially when we saw an empty body bag and a stretcher waiting at the entrance! We hiked basically strait up for about 40 minutes and certainly felt that it was worth it when we saw the view from the top. The ruins looked totally different, and you could see the many layers of agricultural rows. Hiking back down Wayna Picchu was a process and when we finally got down we rested and finished the rest of our packed lunches. We spent the rest of the day sitting on the opposite side of Machu Picchu were we overlooked all the ruins from the post-card view side. Before you knew it, all 5 members of Anna María´s family, Christy, and I were all napping in the grass. It was the perfect day. We finally left the mountain around 4 or 4:30pm and decided to take the bus down, rewarding our hard work from the day. It was really nice to get to do the hike with Anna María and her family, who make great company.
The amazing view of Machu Picchu from the top of Wayna Picchu
The Finnish family, Christy, and I after our nap
We waited around for a while for the train back to Ollantaytambo since the schedule had changed, and finally boarded the train at 9pm. After some trouble in finding out arranged transportation in Ollantaytambo we found the van and drove back to Cusco. At this point I was really not feeling good and had a sore throat, probably from all the events of the past few days. We finally arrived in Cusco, where Christy and I took a taxi to our supposed hostel for the night. We had made plans with the hostel to stay there Monday and Tuesday night since we needed to switch from our luxurious hotel, but when we got there a different boy was working who told me he had no such plans written down. He also told me the price was much higher than I had been told originally, saying it was New Years prices. Frustrated, we left the hostel and roamed the streets for a little while looking for another hostel. Realizing it was 1am and we didn´t have many options we returned back to the hostel, and I resorted to arguing with the body in tears. He refused to lower the price but said he would call his friend´s hostel. We finally arranged to go there, and took a taxi there. It ended up being the grossest, most over-priced hostel ever! But we slept until 1pm the next day catching up on our rest, aftering being oddly woken up at 7:30am when the man who worked there had to ask us a question.
The next day we decided to relax and have a nice lunch. In the late afternoon we took a taxi up one of the surrounding mountains to where there are a bunch of Incan ruins. We got a tour of Sacsayhuaman, the ruins of an Incan temple that was partially destroyed by the Spanish. We also walked up to the white statue of Jesus that overlooks the city of Cusco. The views of the city were beautiful. Of course, we had to deal with a few more hostel problems when we tried to switch hostels that afternoon. They told us that since we had agreed to stay two nights, we would have to pay for two. After some more arguing (and on the bright side, some more practicing Spanish) Christy and I finally had no choice but to stay there the night. We yet again ran into a problem when the hostel did not have the laundry we had given them ready that night. We waited until they could somehow retrieve it, since our flight left early the next morning.
At the entrance to Sacsayhuaman
The view of the city of Cusco
After almost a week filled of many difficulties and frustrations, the overall experience of Cusco and Machu Picchu was an amazing, unforgettable journey. The next morning, Wednesday, we left early for our flight to Lima. I was relieved to finally be going ¨home¨ and to show Christy my home for the past 6-months.
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Chile - Santiago, Viña del Mar
Buenos Aires, Uruguay, Iguazu
El obelisco, cerca de nuestro hostal
On Tuesday we woke up and walked back to the ferry station to go to Colonia, Uruguay for the day. We took the 3-hour ferry, although there was a 1-hour option. When we got to Colonia it was really cool to just know that I was standing in Uruguay! I never thought I would end up going to Uruguay in my lifetime. Colonia is a really cute, quaint town on the coast and we spent the day walking around, shopping a little, and sitting by the ocean. We climbing a little light house to get a view of the area and later when we were walking along a tiny little beach we started finding a bunch of pieces of sea glass. I used to collect sea glass when I went to visit my grandfather in Cape Cod, so I collected a bunch and brought it home to give my mom and grandfather. We had a nice fish lunch in a restaurant near the water. At the end of the day we returned to Buenos Aires by ferry. The one bad thing we noticed about both Colonia and Buenos Aires is that there a tons of mosquitos, so we were glad to be inside on the ferry ride.
On Friday after we ate a nice big lunch we showered and relaxed a little bit. We walked in the afternoon to the port area of the city, called Puerto Madero where we walked into an ecological reserve that had a nice view of the city. The port area was really pretty and we ate dinner at a cafe overlooking the port at sunset. After walking around we decided to go out to a bar to see what the night-life is like, although we were not really up for going out dancing since Argentinians supposedly go out very late. We had a glass of wine and then went back to catch up on some of the sleep we lost on those bus rides.
On our last day in Buenos Aires, Sunday, we woke up to make it for a tour of the Pink House, the president´s palace. We got to see a bunch of different rooms inside and even the inside of the president´s office! The president of Argentina is a woman, which I found very interesting. After that we went to a Sunday street market near the plaza and had so much fun browsing through the tons of items sold by the street vendors. After having a lunch near the market we headed back to collect our things at the hostal and then went to the airport, heading for the next destination of our journey: Chile!
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Arequipa y más despedidas
We left for the long bus-ride to Arequipa from Lima the Friday after finals ended, Friday December 4th. I went on the trip as a way to celebrate the end of finals and our last trip together with my Holy Cross friends Meredith, Meg, and Peter as well as our two Peruvian friends Guillermo and Luis (Chuliso). The bus ride was a little longer than expected due to many stops at bus stations along the way, and we finally arrived in Arequipa after 20 hours on the bus! The trip was very interesting and as we got closer to Arequipa the roads were winding through mountains and had some nice views.
When we got to Arequipa on Saturday morning we went to the Plaza de Armas and from there found a hostal for the night. The plaza was really big and pretty and all the buildings there were made of white volcanic rock called sillar. We walked around and found a tour agency to do a treck of the Colca Canyon starting the next day, Sunday. After lunch, we visited the convent of Santa Catalina which is an old little village-like convent and then browsed a few markets. I caught a mass in a smaller cathedral right next to the plaza and we all had dinner together. After that we all went to bed early, because we had to wake up at 3am the next morning!
La Catedral en La Plaza de Armas
Trecking en el cañon de colca
The next day we started out early and walked further across the inside of the canyon for about 2 hours until we reached the oasis! The oasis was a little town at the base of the canyon that had beautiful blue pools. We got to take a break, rest, and cool off in the pools because the sun was very strong in the canyon. Of course, I got sun-burned pretty badly! After resting and eating lunch, it was time for the 3 to 4-hour ascent. Guillermo, Chuliso, and I decided that we would probably not be able to make it to the top before sunset so we opted to take mules up instead of walking. I have never ridden a horse before, let along a mule, and it was an interesting experience. It was kind of fun, and the views were amazing, but I had to hold on tightly so that I wouldn't fall off! Chuliso, Guillermo, and I made it to the top and then waiting for the hikers who proudly made it to the top a little while after. We had a nice dinner together that night and Angel, who turned out to be a great guide, ended up telling us some spooky ghost stories from his experiences in the canyon.
Guillermo con su mula en el cañon
The next day, Monday, we left Cabanaconde for Chivay, a larger village on the way to Arequipa. We took a bus with some of the local people who were going to Chivay for a religious celebration of one of the saints. The typical dress of the women in the Arequipa area was my favorite from the typical dress I have seen in Peru. They were beautiful dresses and hats that are covered with brightly-colored embroidery. When we got to Chivay, we went to the hot springs there. They are a group of pools overlooking the mountains, but the pools are filled with naturally hot water from the water under the mountains. We were told that the sulfur in the water is what makes it hot. It was a nice, relaxing way to end our strenuous hike. We had lunch in Chivay and took the bus to Arequipa, from where we took the bus to Lima. After a long nights journey Tuesday night, we arrived back in Lima in Wednesday, content from a really nice trip together.
La clase mayor de niños en La Posadita
La clase menor de niños en La Posadita
Todos celebrando el cumple de Jen y la gran despedida
Saturday, December 12, 2009
Despedidas y viajes
The past week has been a whirlwind of good-byes and getting things ready for travel. We left for Arequipa last Friday and took the 20-hour bus ride there and the 18-hour bus ride home on Tuesday night. It was so much fun and a nice final trip with friends. We saw the city a little bit and did a three-day trek of the Colca Canyon, the largest canyon in the world!
Since I've been back from Arequipa, I've been busy getting ready for the trip with my sister! My sister comes tonight and tomorrow we leave for Buenos Aires, Argentina. We will be there for a week and then go to Santiago, Chile. Then we go to Cusco for Christmas and we start a trek of Machu Picchu the day after Christmas. We will end up in Lima from December 30th until January 4th, when I return home the the US. I cannot believe how fast everything has gone by, and I am just trying to enjoy every moment of the time left here.
This week we said a lot of good-byes, to friends and to the children in my volunteer work. It was extremelly difficult to say good-bye to people who have made such an impact on my life, but I have to keep in mind what a blessing it was to have met them.
I will write more all about this week, Arequipa, and my trip with my sister when I return home and have the time to express all the details. This will be my last entry in Peru! It has been a completely amazing experience to have lived the past 6 months of my life in this country, and I will never forget a single moment of it.
Hasta luego!
Michelle